Project Burgundy – 天與地 Part I

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須然我視葡萄酒為一項業餘興趣 , 但一些酒友常說我對葡萄酒的追求熱誠 , 實巳超越一般興趣應有的範籌 , 屬於發燒友的級數………. 無他 , 酒海無崖 , 我既然喜歡一件事當然就會投入 , 而我由始至終只是想對葡萄酒多一些了解認識 , 學習如何欣賞 , 如何展現她的美態 , 強化自己的品試水平及享受整個學習過程。  至於要到達什麼程度級數 , 其實對我來說並不太重要。 可幸自己對喜嗜亦頗為理性及克制 , 玩物養志而不喪志 , 享受欣賞而沉淪 。

自己上半年參加同組別的酒聚太多太繁重 , 有時分身不暇及略照顧自己的 Wine Group , 身為班長心中真有點內疚 , 所以當自己清完酒債後 , 就要 “歸位” , 手為自己的 Wine Group 搞一些學習成份的品試主題 。

Project Burgundy 是一個自己想做很久的 Burgundy專題品試 , 品試目的希望能了解 Burgundy七個南北地域在同一年份 , 同一天氣因素 , 在酒中的果味、濃郁度、酸度、土壤地域風格的變化。

Burgundy 地域太廣 , 今次只選取其中七個出名大村的村級酒 , 以 Pinot Noir 為主 , 並以 2002 一個 Burgundy 很有風的年份作標準 , 當然最完美是由同一 Negociant (酒商) 旗下的出品 , 但這個難度極高 , 碼要幾個月籌備功夫 , 今次時間逼切 , 前後只得三星期 , 所以只好放棄。  今次酒價以$900 一支為上限 , 每款兩支 , 18人分幾組去不同渠道酒 , 大家分頭行事 , 而在市面找不到的品種則由我負責從日本”樂天” 訂購回來。

今次七個大村其中的土壤成份資料如下:

Gevrey Chambertin – Limestone Gravels; Clayey limestone

Vougeot – Clayey Limestone ; Gravels (higher vineyard) ; Humus (lower vineyard)

Vosne Romanee – Clay

Nuit Saint George – Clayey Limestone ; Rocks

 

Corton – Limestone ; Marl

Pommard – Limestone and Red clay

Volnay – Limestone ; Clay

究竟這這些土壤成份如何反映在酒味、餘韻上呢?  Terrrior 如何去表達及區分呢?  能否用此方法去區分?   定要更細地去分呢?

而 2002 年 Burgundy 的天氣狀況資料如下 :

Vintage 2002 produced wonderful red wines from most producers in Burgundy. The final part of the growing season saw light rains in Burgundy in the first 10 – 12 days of September. This raised great fear that the grapes would be negatively affected. Fortunately, the weather from mid-September through mid-October was mostly dry and perfect for final ripening of the grapes. Only a storm on the 19th brought any problems.

The Red Burgundies of 2002 are the best since the excellent 1999 vintage. In general, the 2002 wines tend to be more delicate and refined than the powerful wines of 1999. Some areas of Burgundy were a bit better in 1999 while others showed better in 2002.

There were a few wineries that harvested early to beat any chance of a disastrous storm. The wineries that were patient and harvested later were rewarded with fruit that had much more natural sugar and were able to make better wine.

The area of Burgundy that had the more difficult time was in the Côte d’Or where the summer months had been much drier than normal. The Pinot Noir berries tended to be very small and developed thick skins. As a result, some of the wines in the Côte d’Or are less supple and more tannic than other wines from Burgundy in 2002.

究竟是否真的能反映在酒味上呢? 

品試將在今晚進行 , 欲知結果如何 , 請留意下回分解 ……………

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