Asian Food & Wines Matching

Tasting Date May 2006

之前上過一次 food & wines matching 的基本課程 , 當然飲食業千變萬化 , 酒與食物配搭課題 博大精深 , 並不是上一兩堂 , 一兩 套理論就以為可以掌握 , 何況師傅手勢 , 材料質素跟本不能天天水準一樣 , 所以個參考則可 , 盡信書不如無書  

基本配襯要旨:

1.      Compatible Strength – 近似強弱 

2.      Compatible Serving Temperature – 近似溫度

3.      Flavour Notes – 味道近似

4.      1+1= 3 – 酒同食物雙加而產生另一種美妙效果

配襯時會產生三種不同效果 – Negative (互相排斥抵消) – Neutralized (互相同化) – Enhanced (相輔相承)

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Japanese Cuisine

Beyond sushi, Japanese cuisine is regional and generous in variety. Rice is the most important staple, anything else served alongside rice — fish, meat, vegetables, soup, are considered a side dish. These “sides” are served to heighten and enhance the taste of rice. You will find foods are served either raw or cooked. Cooked food follows on of four principal methods; grilling, simmering, steaming, and frying. Flavors are clean and well balanced.

一個最常遇到的菜式組合。

(1) Champagne, (2) Riesling, (3) Sauvignon Blanc 去配襯三文魚及甜蝦時 , 酒的強度 , 溫度及味道都非常近似 , 除此以外帶出魚生蟹耔的鮮味 , 可以說是 Enhanced  但與 6, 7 配搭時 ,食物的味道被完全覆蓋 , 可說是 Negative

Riesling 與配襯三文魚及甜蝦時 ,更突顯了酒的果味及魚生的鮮味 , 可以說是另一種更好的 Enhanced , 令人感覺舒服。

天婦羅由於是油炸食物 , 溫度及本身菜的味道與魚生的鮮味不同 , 當配襯 (1 – 4) , 基本上結果較 Neutral , 但並沒有 1 + 1 = 3的感覺。 

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Thai Cuisine

The essence of Thai cuisine is contrast as well as harmony. Sweet, sour, spicy, and salty play a balancing act together where one flavor never supersedes the other. The diverse climates of Thailand , from the mountains in the north to the seaside in the south make for an equally diverse Thai menu. Influences that are centuries old come from both Eastern and Western countries. Coconut milk, seafood and fruit all play an important roll in this cuisine. One of the challenges to cooking Thai food away from Thailand is having the right ingredients. The majority of the ingredients are not common to Westerners and tough to find. Just knowing the name of the ingredient sometimes is not enough. You have to know what to look for too.

以味道方面來說Thai Prawn Cakes 為甜酸辣 , Seafood salad 較原味而為清爽而帶酸 , 沙嗲豬肉本身有糖醃 , 肉質帶甜 , 加上沙嗲汁甜而香辣 , 三者都帶不同個性的辣 , 配襯 (1 , 3 , 4 , 5 , 6) , 辣味 Hijack 騎劫了酒的果味 , 或可轉個角度來說 , 酒的酸度 Enhanced 了辣味 , 使辣味在口中良久不散 , 此亦是一種 Enhanced 是好是壞則視乎飲食文化或個人喜好而定 反而因酒是 off dry Sweet , 所以 neutralized 中和了辣度 , 感到較為舒服。

因配以辣菜式Pinot Noir Malbec 在此場合中可謂英雄無用舞之地。

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Malaysian Cuisine

Malaysian cuisine, like its people finds its roots among Chinese, Thai, Arab and Indian influence. These ethnic groups have also merged within the Malaysian ethos and are an intrinsic part of the culture and food of the region. Malay dishes are mostly hot and spicy – in the belief that hot curry eaten on a hot day helps cool the body. The heady aroma of traditional Malay food cooked with tantalizing spices and simmering gravy will leave you wishing for more.
Traditional Malay food makes use of tantalizing herbs such as lemon grass, daun kemangi (a type of basil), nutmeg, bunga kantan(wild ginger buds) and pandan (screwpine) leaves. Dried spices such as star anise, fenugreek, coriander, cumin and fennel are frequently used to flavor Malayan dishes. Fresh chili paste, onions and garlic find themselves in most Malaysian dishes. A key ingredient in Malay cuisine is belachan.. Made from baby shrimps, belachan is available as bricks or cakes. Coconut milk, palm sugar and freshly grated coconut are essential ingredients in most Malaysian desserts.

以味道方面來說 Stirred Fried Prawn with Spice Sambal –為甜酸辣 , Stir Fried Morning Glory with Blachan 帶蝦膏咸味 , Beef Rendang 帶濃郁香料甜辣味 結果非常相似 , 2 感覺較好 ,  Stir Fried Morning Glory with Blachan 的咸味同 Chardonnay 的木桶牛油味亦頗和諧。

總結:

酒對食物的Enhanced Neutralized 的功用 , 要視乎食家的喜好而組合 , 像水能傾舟亦能覆舟

很欣賞所選的隻酒 , 各具特色風格之餘 , 不但可以個別品嘗外 , 亦函蓋了很闊的配搭空間 , 非常實用。

這次選配紅酒中 , 單寧強 , 味道複雜 者欠奉是否表示此類酒容易有 Negative impact?

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