Oysters & Wines Pairing – Part 1

asting Date April 2006

從前我很不喜歡吃生蠔 , 自己對生蠔一直存有誤解及偏見 , 怕其 腥 、潺、不乾淨 , 所以可免則免 , 絕少接觸。 但學 food matching , 酒跟蠔配對是必修課程 , 於是便運用 所學的 N.L.P. 硬頭皮 , 大膽嘗試 去克服陰影 …………… 其實只要新鮮及食得其法 , 原來生蠔亦很美味。

Kumamotos USA – Pacific Northwest ’s only native variety – a different species from the more Pacific oyster – they are small, mild, yet meaty, almost lushly flavorful.

b3

Miranda Somerton Brut Reserve Cuvee NV , Australia   $70
The free run portions of Semillon and Chardonnay were used in this wine to maintain the light delicate floral fruit aromas. A portion of the juice for this wine was fermented, then held on lees to add complexity and body. The balance was cold fermented in stainless steel to enhance the fruit characters.

Aromas of straw, citrus and apple from the Semillon combine beautifully with the peach and dried fig aromas of the Chardonnay. The fine effervescence enhances the clean fresh flavours and aromas while helping the finish to remain crisp as it lingers in the mouth.

評語

日本種 Kumamotos , 體形較為細少 ,味道鮮美 ,感覺而有點像木魚花 , 礦物味適中而不太咸 , 蠔韻優雅悠長 . 品嘗蠔的鮮味後來一口較乾身香檳 , 香檳的氣泡沖激原本己開始消散的蠔韻 , 使人可再一次回味蠔的鮮味及礦物味 , 香檳的 yeast 味平滑柔和 , 香檳的酸度及清新感覺中和了口中的咸味 , 及消散海鮮的腥味 , 感覺舒服自然。

White Pearl – France

b6

Domaine de Grand’ Maison, Muscadet Sevre et Maine , Sur Lie 2003 , France         $90

The Domaine de Grand-Maison is situated just at the junction of the 2 Sèvre and Maine rivers, in the middle of the appellation and covers about 10 hectares. The grape variety used is Muscadet or Melon de Bourgogne.

The wine comes from entirely handpicked grapes, fermented for 20 days at low temperature. It will then rest on lees (natural particles the result of fermentation and deposited at the bottom of vats), which will enrich its flavour and smoothness. It has a pale yellow colour and delicate flavours (white flowers, almonds) and a fruity taste, dry but ample.

評語

法國 白珍珠蠔, 體形較為修長 ,味道鮮爽 , 礦物味濃郁而較勁 , 令人感受到產蠔區海水特有的咸味 , 蠔韻沉厚悠長 . 品嘗蠔的鮮味後來一口 Muscadet , 酒的果香帶有點似青蘋果及青檸 , 清爽舒暢 , 屬冷氣候堤子特性 , Sur Lie代表酒會同死酵母有較長時間接觸 , 結構較為複雜 , 體型亦較中厚 ,  與蠔的肉質非常吻合相連 , 酒的鮮爽感非常醒胃 , 酒亦消除了蠔的腥味 , 亦把蠔如牛奶的濃厚質感和海潮餘韻帶出 , 感覺深奧豐滿。

 

Totten USA– Northwest coasts of Canada & US gives the broadest, roundest, fruitiest, fleshiest and most creamy texture of bivaves

b9

Ruffino Lumina Del Borgo Pinot Grigio I.G.T. 2003, Italy            $105

Straw yellow with copper overtone, tropically fruity, complex with a bouquet reminiscent of golden delicious apples.  Fresh, crispy and well-structure, piquant and persistent.

Peach skin, mineral, green apple and pear aromas mark the nose of what is a round, soft and very fresh, and crisp white wine. We like the mineral, pear, baked apple flavours and the spicy, nutty finish. A well made white from the north.

評語

美國 Totten , 體形較為修長飽滿 ,味道鮮美 , 海潮氣息及礦物味比珍珠蠔略淡 ,但肉質結構像牛奶一樣 , 感覺實在; 蠔韻較幼細棉長 , 配以 Pinot Grigio 的特有礦物味 , 感覺連貫一至 , Pinot Grigio 的酸度 , 清爽感沖洗味蕾及醒胃, 令人可不停的去品嘗蠔的鮮美。

Tsar Skaya – France

 b12

Carmen Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2005 , Chile      $115

It has the fruit intensity and character of a Reserve range. A bright yellow-greenish colour with intense herbaceous characters, a hint of mineral notes; citric and tropical fruit flavours. A full palate, naturally balanced with its fruit acidity to provide a lingering finish.
White, Medium-Full Bodied, Dry, 12.5% alcohol

評語

法國 Tsar Skaya原藉蘇聯 肉質肥美飽滿 日本珍珠蠔同樣有非常濃郁的礦物味 ,質感如淡奶般輕巧幼滑 , 蠔韻為同場之冠 , 非常特久 , 聚而不散 , 充份反影產蠔區的地理個性。

Carmen Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 帶花香及石榴味 ,香氣怡神 , 酒本身亦較為中厚及結構複雜 , 酸度較之前幾隻白酒略低  , 屬熱帶產區特性。

酒與蠔可稱為夢幻組合 , 首先品嘗Tsar Skaya那幼滑肉質及濃郁礦物味 , 繼而酒的花香果酸味沖洗一味蕾 , 之後蠔的餘韻由喉底及齒間四面如海潮般湧出 , 再如潮退一樣慢慢消退 ………感覺之奇妙絕倫 , 真的令人無言以對 , 回味無窮 , 良久說不出話來 , 令人產生一種懷念的感覺。

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